South Main

AU PETIT CAFE
Perpetually crowded, this tiny, no-nonsense, 10-table storefront turns tables quickly. There are lots of Vietnamese favourites, including a husky and aromatic star-anise-noted beef stew worthy of a Canadian lumberjack. Colonial French crossover influences show most clearly in well-made banh mi, where a generous crunch of baguette is over-filled with juicy miniature meatballs, pickled vegetables, cold cuts, hot peppers and purple basil. For $4 they’re a steal; if you’re rushing off they’re neatly wrapped in butcher’s wrap snapped with an elastic. Wash it down with a strong, sweet iced coffee, and rush back. 4851 Main St., South Main, 604-873-3328. $

AURORA BISTRO
Chef Jeff Van Geest predated the gentrification of the Main Street crossroads years ago. Through regularly scheduled wine and beer dinners, he and new general manager Dan Hawkins have built a well-deserved affinity with neighbours and cross-town traffic. They come for the clean cooking conscientiously cast in locality and good ingredients such as Nicola Valley bison carpaccio ($12) with parmesan, smoked paprika aïoli and pickled beets, or Polderside Farm duck breast with szechuan peppercorn crust, rhubarb compote and crisp potato roestii ($27). The terrific wine list is B.C.-only, and features tough finds such as Black Hills Alibi, Joie Year One Rosé and Kettle Valley King Merlot. Aurora consistently exceeds its mark as a modern Canadian bistro where the food and service are both accessible and convivial. A must visit. 2420 Main St., South Main, 604-873-9944. $$-$$$

BUDAPEST RESTAURANT
Hungarian food is comfort food, and Miro and Sonia Fabian serve up bowlfuls of goulash and cheer in this small, warm bistro. Start with lángos, highly addictive deep-fried bread rubbed with sliced garlic, served with sour cream for dipping. Pork schnitzel is outstanding and softly flavoured chicken paprikás are simmered in quality paprika and sour cream; pair it with cucumber salad. Book some room for somloi galuska, Hungary’s decadent version of tiramisu, or the vanilla goodness of a krémes slice. 3250 Main St., South Main, 604-877-1949. $$-$$$

CHUTNEY VILLA
Everyone gets hugs from warm and gregarious chef/owner Chindi Varardarajulu, whether it’s your first visit or, like many of her customers, your hundredth. This is south Indian cuisine promoted by whole spices, roasted for a crunchy, nutty flavour. A trio of chutneys might include freshly made apple, coconut and pineapple. The dosas are thin, light and slightly charred, ideal for mopping up lamb poriyal or any of the deeply spiced curries. R&B beer on tap, along with a few Indian bottles and wine selections or fresh lime cordial. South Indian brunch on weekends. Great value. 147 E. Broadway, South Main, 604-872-2228. $$

CIPRIANO'S
Hearty pizzas come along with the claim that founding father Giuseppe Cipriano was the first to bring the dishy pies to Vancouver in 1953. Tablecloths are red-checkered and meatballs ($12.95) weigh perhaps a half-pound each. This is true red-sauce Italian, veering on kitsch, with authenticity and warmth keeping it real (and keeping Main from over-gentrification). You won’t be able to finish it all, but order a Mama Cipriano Feast ($24.95), including salad, bruscetta, an entrée, garlic bread, and dessert that is under no circumstances to be bypassed, until you are. 3995 Main Street, South Main, 604-879-0020. $$

CONGEE NOODLE HOUSE
Congee—that versatile and comforting rice gruel fluffed and creamed with its featured ingredients—is the best in town. The seafood congee—loaded with chunks of prawns, scallops, cod and shiitake mushroom—tops the list, as do specialty steamed rice rolls, velvety and generously stuffed. That’s breakfast. Add a plate of perfectly cooked Kai Lan (Chinese broccoli) with oyster sauce, or splurge on an order of terrific barbecue duck, and that’s lunch. For a midnight snack choose from tasty small plates ranging from crisp-fried tofu to satay beef. 141 E. Broadway, South Main, 604-879-8221. $

CRAVE
After 15 years of platinum-card cooking, most recently at the Four Seasons, chef Wayne Martin’s new kitchen, about the size of his former desk, packs pedigree and punch. The modern Canadian menu features “shorty poutine” with truffle parmesan fries and short rib jus ($9), or smoked black cod niçoise ($18). This is clean, uncontrived cooking, best taken over a beer or a bottle from the slim wine card, on a pretty patio that’s as sunny as the service. Weekend brunch is spectacular. 3941 Main St., South Main, 604-872-3663. $$

DEL-HI DARBAR
Try the masala dosa here: paper-thin crêpes with vegetable filling. Or the papri chat, spiced flour crisps with potatoes and chickpeas. And that’s just for starters. The murg tikka, chicken pieces in a spicy yogurt sauce, is excellent; you’ll be grateful for the naan to mop your plate clean. 2120 Main St., South Main, 604-877-7733. $-$$

DUFFIN'S DONUTS
The torta subs (all for $3.75) are the best thing going here, on fresh home-baked buns loaded with lettuce, tomato, avocado and hot peppers. Try the spicy shredded beef machaca, chorizo and egg, or the carne azada, a savoury chicken schlimazel. Now with two venues in the city to broaden the edible horizons of folks with doughnut and torta sub hankerings. One of the city’s best spots for cheap eats. 1391 E. 41st Ave., East Side, 604-325-5544; 4898 Main St., South Main, 604-879-5551. $

THE FIVE POINT
As Main Street’s grime gets polished to a shine, it’s comforting to know there are still a few slightly sullied watering holes. Like any good neighbourhood pub, the Five Point is a melting pot—you’re guaranteed to find hipsters, jocks, and old-time drunks imbibing collegially any night of the week. Really big burgers, and amazingly delicious blackened ahi tuna bites with pickled ginger and wasabi mayo. Excellent value for all, and the large patio is made for people watching. 3124 Main St., South Main, 604-876-5810. $$

FOUNDATION
The green room at the corner of 7th and Main is home away from home for practising vegetarians and off-duty carnivores. Innovative presentation on oversize plates; attempt the “mango fort” of pasta in coconut-mango sauce or satay salad of braised tofu and warm peanut sauce with quinoa sprinkled along the plate rim. Serious contenders for best nachos in the city. The interior is a cross-section of ’50s tables and chairs and a kitchen that looks like a well-outfitted loggers camp. 2301 Main St., South Main, 604-708-0881. $

HABIT
Décor pushes vaguely Roots-y, Canadian rec room feel, the bar’s a cosy sanctum before the boisterous dinner crowd drowns you out, and the food—small plates, cunningly contrived and usually well-executed—are well worth the stop. Many habitués do. Check out the Moroccan spiced free-run chicken wings glazed with orange-chili and pomegranate ($10) or the amazing crispy tofu, mushrooms and spinach with chili-hoisin sauce ($9). The wine list is brief but well chosen, the selection of local draft beer broad. 2610 Main St., South Main, 604-877-8582. $$-$$$

HAWKER'S DELIGHT
Authentic Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine and ridiculously inexpensive. The mee goreng, fried noodle with egg, bean sprouts, tofu and diced potatoes, is a wonder at just $4.25 a plate. Everything is made from scratch, such as the lamb in a rich coconut-milk-based curry, and the simple set-up “keeps the overhead down,” says owner Annie Tan. Possibly the best cheap eats in town. 4127 Main St., South Main, 604-709-8188. $

HENNESSY DINING LOUNGE
Close-knit tables give the room energy; live music and solid DJs keep the young crowd pumped. Enjoy a cheeky cocktail—like the “Mother Pucker,” a mix of raspberry vodka, southern comfort, peach schnapps and lager ($7.95)—with a selection (or two) from the small plates menu. The skewered prawns with wonton crisps and sweet chili Asian slaw ($9) and the well-executed basil pesto gnocchi ($12) won’t disappoint. 53 W. Broadway, South Main, 604-875-9006. $$

JOSEPHINE'S
There’s often a lineup during prime time at this popular cafeteria-style Filipino restaurant, and for good reason: Josephine’s budget-conscious combination plate is a remarkable bargain. For just $7.75, it’s a palate-awakening bowl of sinigang na bangus (a sour tamarind-based soup with milkfish and a green-chili kick) and rice, together with two entrées of your choice. Try the lechon paksiw, a sweet and sour stew of roasted pork slow-simmered in seasonings including vinegar, soy sauce and lechon sauce. And don’t skip dessert: their creamy cassava cake is well worth a Lipitor or two. 2650 Main St., South Main, 604-876-8785. $-$$

KOON BO RESTAURANT
Tucked away in a non-descript mini-mall, Koon Bo is a favourite with large families. Shredded chicken salad is a textural wonder of hand-shredded chicken, house made pickles, sesame dressed jelly fish, and crispy wonton skins. The house made pickles make another appearance stir fried with beef and young ginger. The Chinese bbq duck (order when making reservations) is one of the best you’ll ever bite. Honey garlic pork is served in a basket of fried noodles surrounded by deep fried “pepah” tofu (or “lute” tofu, as the quenelles look like the body of a Chinese lute). Order a plain green vegetable to balance the strong flavors and look to specials sheet on the inside of the cover of the menu for more ideas. 5682 Fraser St., South Main, 604-323-1218. $$

KWONG CHOW CONGEE NOODLE HOUSE
You’ll be presented with two menus, one with congee and noodles, one with regular dishes. The latter has a special section dedicated to ostrich (prepared eight different ways), a rabbit hot pot and Cantonese soul-food dishes. Order the country-style steamed pork patty with dried squid and a ginko with pork stomach hot pot. Décor is tired but functional, and the service ranges from inconsistent to harried, but it’s still a good bet for late-night (until 2 a.m. daily). 3163 Main St., South Main, 604-876-8520. $-$$

LEGENDARY NOODLE
This 20-seat, bare-bones eatery deserves its name. Celebrated by Mark Bittman in the New York Times and scouted by Martha Stewart Living, the all-day, hand-pulled noodle show in the glass booth makes good theatre. Mr. Lee, a physicist in the old country, pulls magic from dough, kneading and stretching. In moments chewy noodles are ready to plunge into the cooking pot. Must-have: lamb shank noodles (No.25) in a garlicky broth scented with cilantro ($6.80), defined and rich over al dente noodles. For balance, try the tasty fried Chinese chive-stuffed pastry. 4191 Main St., South Main, 604-879-8758; 1074 Denman St., 604-669-8551; Legendary Pasta Bar, Metrotown Centre, 4700 Kingsway, Burnaby, 604-438-3166. $

LOCUS CAFE
With a clientele that’s as eclectic as the decor, this hip Main Street eatery is not afraid to blaze its own path. The open kitchen pounds out adventurous menu items like elk burgers ($11.50) and bison short ribs ($19.50) that co-mingle with abundant vegetarian selections. Strong coffee (every cup’s an Americano) and generous portions make this a popular brunch spot. At night the cavernous room, with its large bar, deep wooden booths, dark burgundy walls and loud music, transforms into a voyeuristic pleasuredome. Open late. 4121 Main St., South Main, 604-708-4121. $-$$

LONG'S NOODLE HOUSE
Tiny pink-hued eatery spotted with posters of Shanghai. Mainstays: a collection of house-made northern Chinese dim sum and noodle dishes—very good soupy steamed mini pork buns and Shanghai-style pan-fried noodles—and a dozen dinner dishes scribbled, in Chinese, on whiteboards. Try the wine-cooked fish slices, the Lion’s Head meatballs stuffed with salted egg yolks, and superior wine-soaked chicken drumsticks which come to the table traditionally presented in a small crockpot (an unbeatable bargain for $3.95). Co-owner and sole waitress Sandy has a smile that lights up hearts. 4853 Main St., South Main, 604-879-7879. $

THE MAIN
Home-style Greek—sans blue paint and Aegean travel posters—from Harry and Arinianakis Prinianakis (ex-Appolonia) draws cross-town diners for the huge portion of braised lamb shank. Go with a group and order multiple metzes: the skordalia, tzatziki, spanakopita and dolmades are meaningful. Thursday through Saturday, a smaller menu is available after 9:30 p.m. when live music starts up. 4210 Main St., South Main, 604-709-8555. $$-$$$

MUI GARDEN RESTAURANT
All four locations of this Hong Kong-style coffee shop boast oddities of sliced ham with macaroni in soup, and Pork Chop de Hawaii that arrives on a sizzling iron platter. More authentic: Chiu Chow-style noodle soups with house-made cuttlefish, and crunchy beef meatballs on fresh ribbons of rice noodles, the broth snapped with pickled napa cabbage, fried garlic and nori. Other specialties: Singapore-style satays; creamy Malaysian coconut curries and Hainan chicken, with rice cooked in chicken fat and stock. Décor is minimalist-diner, but the service, especially on Main Street, is welcoming. 4265 Main St., South Main, 604-872-8232; 5797 Victoria Dr., South Vancouver, 604-324-3665; 6956 Victoria Dr., South Vancouver, 604-301-1278. $-$$

PHO HOANG VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT
Good pho is a life-sustaining meal that manages to combine most of the major food groups (with the exception of alcohol) in one bowl. From the encyclopedic pho list, choose the No. 15 beef bowl—pho tai nam. Long-kettled beef bones produce the mother broth—which we’ve found inconsistent, but when it’s good, it can be very good. It’s clarified (a bit of alchemy), then transferred to litre-size service bowls. Sliced rare beef and braised brisket are added over rice noodles, whole stems of basil leaves, and a dice of fresh chilies. A splash of lime juice to finish. Charbroiled chicken leg and pork chop divine; chilled Vietnamese coffee a must. 3388 Main St., South Main, 604-874-0832. $$

PHO TAN VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT
Well-executed traditional Vietnamese fare makes this family-run restaurant an unexpected gem on the Main Street corridor. Ga uop xa is succulent chunks of grilled chicken delicately scented with lemon grass, guaranteed to disappear as soon as it hits the table. Available only after 3:00 p.m., banh xeo is worth the wait—a delicate turmeric-laced rice-flour crêpe studded with shrimp and scallions, encasing a filling of bean sprouts and mixed seafood. 4598 Main St., South Main, 604-873-3345. $-$$

THE REEF
Mojitos are available by the pitcher (as are many of the inventive cocktails)—grab a few friends and settle in for the night. Deep fried, deliciously soft and sweet Johnny cakes come with all entrées, like the traditional ackee and saltfish (Jamaica’s national dish of ackee fruit and salt cod, with rice, peas and slaw, $12) or the “stiki tiki ribs”, slow cooked and glazed with pinapple and honey ($16). Jerk chicken here captures the essence of Island cooking. 4172 Main St., South Main, 604-874-5375. $$

REKADOS
Chef Charlie Dizon elevates Filipino cuisine to a level surpassing homey and comfortable in this sleek, stylish room. The uninitiated can sip on a calamansi mojito while a friendly server guides them through the seamless mélange of Malaysian, Spanish and Chinese influences. Tops of the small plates are sweet kamote fries with hot banana ketchup and calamansi mayo and tokwa’t tokwa, deep-fried tofu like no other, served in a soy-chili sauce and sprinkled with toasted garlic and shallots. Save room for the sweets, especially the duo of warm toffee cake and turon, a light spring roll with banana and jackfruit. 4063 Main St., South Main, 604-873-3133. $$-$$$

SANDY'S CUISINE
Owner and cooking-show host Sandy Daza warmly welcomes to his bright, modest restaurant. Traditional Filipino fare is served in steam-table cafeteria fashion, and menu offerings rotate regularly; this is known as turo-turo or “point-point”—diners simply point at different dishes to indicate choices. Pandan chicken is a top pick: chunks of marinated chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves that add subtle flavour while grilling. If it’s spice that you’re after, order the Bicol Express. Daza’s version of this pork stew with green chilies and coconut milk has a deep, rich heat. 4186 Main St., South Main, 604-677-4807. $-$$

SAWASDEE THAI
Busaba Poonpem prepares tasty Thai food served in a simply styled restaurant with attentive service. Start with her stuffed-spiced chicken wings, beautiful flower-shaped chicken dumplings, and papaya salad—all dishes under $10. The pad Thai is nicely sauced ($9.95), as is the roast duck curry ($11.95). The house favourite is the crying tiger beef ($9.95). It’s delivered a perfect medium rare—sliced and marinated in hot hot hot sauce (they’ll oblige with less spice). Plenty of vegetarian choices. 4250 Main St., South Main, 604-876-4030. $$

SEB'S MARKET CAFE
Owner François Godbout left a busy movie-catering business to make this charming Mount Pleasant café his primary obsession. An ever-changing menu is full of unpretentious and delicious bistro fare: baked camembert with candied maple garlic jam and fruit preserves ($6), seared scallops with orange ginger glaze ($7), and a Moroccan-spiced lamb shank with apricot and Burgundy jus ($14) are full-flavoured. The casual and friendly room features live jazz on the weekends, and Godbout’s brunch service fills up so quickly that regulars wake up early on Sundays to secure their spot. 592 E. Broadway, South Main, 604-298-4403. $-$$

SEOUL DOOKBAEGI
Large communal tables bespeak the popularity of this casual spot for family dining. Tuck into a bowl of Kimchi Jigae, kimchi stew with pork and vegetables served bubbling on a burner. Haemool pajun is the Korean equivalent of okonomiyaki, a golden pancake of assorted seafood that’s crisp-fried but tender on the inside. Served sizzling on a cast-iron platter, jeyuk bokum is pork and vegetables stir-fried in a spicy house sauce. Wash it all down with a bottle of Hite, Korean beer that helps to douse the flames. 1031 Kingsway, South Main, 604-879-1515 $$

SLICKETY JIM'S CHAT 'N' CHEW
This offbeat café on Main Street has gained a loyal following with generous portions of quality comfort food, eccentric personalities and kitschy garage sale decor. The menu reads like it was written by an acid-tripping English major. “If Stalin Had a Rubber Ducky” ($8.75) is a belly filling crowd pleaser of a grilled salmon tomatillo Benny and two eggs scrambled with cheddar cheese and black forest ham on an English muffin (a.k.a. the McDecimation of Cultural Diversity at $7.75) is as interesting as its moniker. Beware of long waits at peak hours. 2513 Main St., South Main, 604-873-6760. $-$$

SUN SUI WAH
Expert dim sum and later, top-flight seafood dishes. It’s a must-visit on the culinary trail for its king crab (carapace in black bean sauce, legs in garlic) and whole flash-fried fish. The once-groundbreaking decor is getting a little shabby but the service is gracious, and the wine list goes all the way to match the savoury and occasionally spicy cuisine. Many a Chinese celebration has been held here, and for good reason. 3888 Main St., South Main, 604-872-8822; 102-4940 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-683-8208. $$$

TOSHI
Bright and airy, if Spartan. Find frequent line-ups for the freshest sushi (owner Toshi Saito is experienced and expert: he’s one of the founders of Whistler’s acclaimed Sushi Village) and crunchy agedashi tofu with wondrous hot sauce. The grilled squid is outstanding. 181 E. 16th Ave., South Main, 604-874-5173. $-$$

VANCOUVER VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT
Forgive the uninspired name, this pho restaurant is memorable in all the right ways. Go for appetizers like fried prawn on sugar cane ($3.99) and steamed rice crêpes filled with pork and mushrooms ($3.50) plus generous soup noodles and entrée portions—extra rice noodles offered free. Enthusiastic greetings of “Super friend!,” “Beautiful lady!,” or “My brother!” from owner Brian and his staff will make you feel loved. 4136 Main St., South Main, 604-872-3455. $

THE WHIP
Two parts urban loft, one part English pub, cheery service and a gallery of rotating local artwork make a potent potable called The Whip. Under new ownership, this local watering hole has kicked it up a notch, offering a menu as eclectic as their growing clientele. Great brews on tap, a small but carefully chosen wine list and sangrias named after the four Cardinal virtues (is it wrong to order a second jug of Prudence?) make this a great spot to quench your thirst. Weekends boast booming brunch business and Cask Ale Sundays draw a crowd. 209 6th Ave., South Main, 604-874-4687. $-$$

WING NUTS
This Main Street hole in the wall, brought to you by the Burgoo crew, is dedicated to all things wings (12 for $8.69). Over 15 varieties of house-made sauces and dips range from tepid to five-alarm fire, but rest assured there’s plenty of ice-cold brew on hand to douse the flames. Daily specials round out a menu where you’ll also find a mean poutine ($6.79) and a generous steak and cheese sandwich ($8.49). Good news for those shut out on busy game nights: they’re in process of doubling seating capacity. Check out the Wall of Flame, a photomontage of satisfied customers beaming through red stained lips. Delivery available daily after 4:00 p.m. 4444 Main St., South Main, 604-874-9874. $-$$

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